Smoke Taint in 2020: What Does It Mean?
The fires are out, hopefully, for the season. Rain has returned to Northern California, and yet there are scars of the fires visible – most notable in the north end of the Napa Valley. The blazes have left their mark; and, all told, 30 wineries have been impacted. Some burned completely like Chateau Boswell. Others lost buildings or vineyards. The sentiment in the valley is “Napa Strong – come back better than ever.” The question for the consumer, though, has got to be: What can be expected of the wines?
The first questions to answer are: 1) What is smoke taint, and 2) How does it impact the vines? Smoke from a fire enters through the leaves and vine stems. It also is absorbed through the grape skin itself. The grapes are most susceptible during the period post-veraison. (Veraison is the stage of the ripening process when the firm, green berries begin to soften and change color.) The closer it gets to harvest, the greater the risk to the grapes. At this time, the volatile phenolic compounds found in smoke permeate the waxy skin of the grape and become bound to sugars forming glycosides. Very little smoke gets concentrated into the pulp of the grape. Smoke does not enter through the soil or roots.
Taking It to “The Hilt”
By definition, the hilt means “in full.” That is exactly what I discovered when tasting the Pinot Noir “The Hilt” from Santa Barbara. The wine is silky and smooth with rich, lush flavors. Given that experience, I wondered how I had missed the opportunity in the past. Nonetheless, I am glad I found it. The Old Guard is the bottle I tried first, and I was wowed by the depth of flavor and how long the finish sailed on. This was a real treat to discover!
Pinot Noir presents challenges and to drink it done so masterfully is a treat. The vine itself is a difficult partner and can fall flat. It has been called the heartbreak variety since it is a frail vine and subject to many diseases and mutation. Its clusters are usually small and challenging to evenly ripen. So what makes it appealing? It can provide subtle depth of flavors and an array of notes to accompany the fruit flavors of Cranberry, Cherry and Raspberry. Its high acidity and low tannins profile make it a wonderful partner for many meals. When you find one like The Hilt, it really makes for a fabulous dinner.
Enjoying Wine with All Senses
Many times, I have observed people drinking wine in a casual environment, at a gathering or over dinner. They raise the glass to their lips and drink it in. What is wrong with that you might ask? Nothing, nothing at all; yet there may be more to garner from the pleasure of wine if there were more thoughtfulness in the process.
Wine is a multi-faceted beverage, and the more curious approach may yield more depth and breadth of flavor when you engage more of the senses. This type of exploration may heighten the enjoyment and offer expanded knowledge each time. Each glass becomes a practice session for engagement of the senses to discover what is in the glass.
Rosé for the Summertime!
It will soon be summertime with warmer temperatures and bright blue skies. Across the street from my house, my neighbor’s roses are in full bloom and gorgeous. My email inbox is blooming too with numerous offers for rosé. It is a perfect time for light pink wine with bright fruit and crisp acidity to complement your stay-at-home meals. Rosé can be made in many different styles and ranges from very pale pink to a dark cranberry-juice red. It can be dry or slightly sweet. It is amazing how much the rosé market has taken off! A few years ago, it was an interesting wine, served on occasion. Today, there are plentiful takes on this historic wine.
Rosé generally is a wine made from a blend of red varietals with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre leading the way. The most notable area for production of rosé is Provence in France. Provence is a region which lies on the southeast border of the country along the Mediterranean Coast and prides itself on being the birthplace of French wine. Winemaking in this region dates back to before 600 BCE. It has a Mediterranean climate of mild winters, warm summers and little precipitation during the growing season. Rosé accounts for 88% of the wine production in this region and contributes greatly to France being the number one producer of the world’s rosé.
“Zoom In” on Winemaker Julien Fayard
This coming Saturday, April 25, there is an opportunity to sit at home and engage with one of my very favorite winemakers, Julien Fayard. Please read on for details and how to RSVP.
Julien has 20 years of winemaking experience starting in Provence, to Lafite Rothchild and Smith Haut Laffite prior to coming to Napa. Once here in the states, he worked along side Phillipe Melka. Many folks describe his work as bringing French finesse to making Napa wine. He has a deft touch in bringing great wine to life as a reflection of the grape and terrior.
Staying at Home…with Wine
These are interesting times to say the least. Our current circumstances in the world can still present opportunities. In the wine industry, many are taking the situation and providing new and unique ways to experience wine. There is easier access to getting wine shipped to your home with very small shipping fees, if any charges at all; and many wineries are opening up their cellars, offering older vintages for sale. The way it is now, it is clearly remarkable and a time to adventure into your own cellar and explore tastings with experts and winemakers.
For example, Turnbull Winery has set up on-line tastings with their winemaker Peter Heitz. He is home-grown in the Napa Valley and one of the most gracious and down to earth folks to speak with. While the first opportunity will have passed with this posting, there will be more. Not just with Turnbull. I have gotten numerous emails and announcements about other on-line events. There is another with the winemaker of Alpha Omega, with AXR, with Pride and so on. The industry is working hard to stay connected, and this is a wonderful time to learn and enjoy this age-old beverage that has been linked to humankind’s heritage since the Roman Empire and before. You should check out the websites of your favorite wineries and see what they are offering. They may be offering video tastings of wine that they will ship you. It could be quite delightful.
French Wine for $25!
Yes, it is well worth it. The 2016 Chateau Malescasse is comprised of 53% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot. It will pair nicely with roast lamb or steak. A great option when you think about a nicely seared T-Bone on the grill.
French wine is glorious. That goes without saying as they have a history and a reputation that is held up by the wine laws that govern the wine practices in France. You have undoubtedly heard the terms “Old World” and “New World.” The French set the mark and established the practices that set-in motion the “Old World,” a term that typifies and places emphasis on the terroir, less alcohol, greater acidity and more earthy flavors with less intervention by the winemaker.
Beer in Napa Valley??
Recently, we had friends visiting, and I was well aware that one of them appreciated wine while her husband enjoyed beer. One would think this is a challenge in one of the most prestigious wine regions in the world. Interestingly, the expanse of libations includes those made with hops and barley. Wine drinkers are not alone in their quest for aromas and taste. Beer itself has taken a big step forward in that same arena. I did my research to share some great stops with them.
Our first stop was St. Clair Brown, located on Vallejo Street in downtown Napa. It is housed in a cute building which is structured like a greenhouse, and they serve their offerings in a very sweet garden setting. What makes this location really special is that they not only make beer, they make wine. Elaine St. Clair is the winemaker and brewmaster, studying both at UC Davis. This enterprise with her friend and business partner, Laina Brown, started in 2010, when they founded Napa’s first boutique urban winery, nano-brewery and culinary gardens. This is the perfect stop for those who want to try both wine and beer.
For the Health of Our Wine: Not Over the Fridge!
All of us have a specific preference for temperature and sunlight. Mine is somewhere above 60 degrees with an ample amount of blue skies and not too much moisture (rain that is). Hmmm, that makes a good argument for California. I found this out living in the frozen tundra of Minneapolis for several years. My point is that there are ideal conditions to preserve our health and well-being.
That holds true for wine. If you have visited wineries and walked through the caves, you know that the main purpose of the cave is temperature control and high humidity. You have heard the number 55 degrees. Well, it is all about controlling the reaction in the barrel and the bottle. A bottle of wine will eventually turn to vinegar left to its own devices in high heat and excessive oxygen.
A Sparkling Entry into a New Decade
Yes, of course, I mean sparkling wine. As New Year’s Eve and Day approach, I can think of no better beverage to welcome in the new year than sparkling wine! It bubbles, it foams, and the effervescence is intoxicating. The simple pouring of a glass invites celebration.
The first question then is what type of glass should you use? There are many traditional and even historical vessels that have been used, such as the open goblets which eventually morphed into the flute. The flute itself has become quite prevalent today, even in restaurants and bars. My suggestion would be to use a traditional white wine glass. You will still see the stream of bubbles and also enjoy the fresh, toasty aromas of the wine. Reidel has introduced a new performance glass that, in my experience, enhances the beauty of a sparkling wine.