Taking It to “The Hilt”
By definition, the hilt means “in full.” That is exactly what I discovered when tasting the Pinot Noir “The Hilt” from Santa Barbara. The wine is silky and smooth with rich, lush flavors. Given that experience, I wondered how I had missed the opportunity in the past. Nonetheless, I am glad I found it. The Old Guard is the bottle I tried first, and I was wowed by the depth of flavor and how long the finish sailed on. This was a real treat to discover!
Pinot Noir presents challenges and to drink it done so masterfully is a treat. The vine itself is a difficult partner and can fall flat. It has been called the heartbreak variety since it is a frail vine and subject to many diseases and mutation. Its clusters are usually small and challenging to evenly ripen. So what makes it appealing? It can provide subtle depth of flavors and an array of notes to accompany the fruit flavors of Cranberry, Cherry and Raspberry. Its high acidity and low tannins profile make it a wonderful partner for many meals. When you find one like The Hilt, it really makes for a fabulous dinner.
The most interesting part of this discovery for me is that the winemaker is Matt Dees. His is a name you may not have heard, yet one you should know. Matt is the winemaker for Jonata which is owned by the same individual who owns Screaming Eagle. Quality is the aim for both brands, and this Pinot Noir does not disappoint.
Matt has been the winemaker at Jonata since 2004. He made his way to Santa Barbara by way of the Napa Valley. Originally, he started at Staglin under the tutelage of Andy Erickson (Dalla Valla, Screaming Eagle, Marciano, Arietta, Mayacamas, Ovid and co-owner of Favia and Leviathan). He has also worked alongside of Ted Lemon of Litorai Wines (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Burgundian fashion). Listening to Matt speak about wine is like being in a college class of art and science expressed light-heartedly. He is quick witted and easy to listen to and learn from. He is from Kansas City and gained his degree is Soil Science from the University of Vermont. He would make ice wine, and this is where he was bit by the wine bug. The West Coast then became his target.
The Hilt is just one of the labels made by Matt. Obviously, he also makes Jonata which is a luscious endeavor that includes Cabernet, Cab Franc, Merlot, Syrah, as well as Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. I first visited Jonata with a group of friends back in 2013 and have been a fan ever since. You can click here to read my post on Jonata.
This collection of wines from this winery includes a modest priced offering called The Paring. These bottles sell for $25 each and are quite approachable and delicious. They are made from grapes that are either too young or do not fall into the vintage style that year. The range of offerings here includes a red blend, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and a Rosé. These wines are quaffable and very well crafted. It is not often you find this type of quality at this price point. You can read my post about The Paring here.
If you think I am a fan of Matt Dees, you are spot on. His talent and artistry are remarkable. I enjoy what he does and would hope you would try one of the offerings.
Enjoy
